Digital Rear View Mirror

The rear view in an Evora through the standard mirror is pretty bad. You only have this little window in the back behind the seats and I have decided to get rid of this problem using a digital rear view mirror and a camera. You can mount the camera in different positions. The propably best are the following, ordered in the difficulty to mount everything:

  • Inside the passenger cabin, just in front of the little window in the back.
  • Behind the window in the engine bay or between the vents of the carbon fibre hood that came on the Evora 410 and 430.
  • At the rear bumper above the license plate, replacing the standard rear camera.

I need to mention that this manual covers only the first mounting position, but it will be helpful for the other two also.

Quick preview for comparison of the standard mirror view and the digital view:

Standard mirror view
Digital mirror view

What needs to be wired?

There are three cables that are coming with the display.

  • Power adapter (12V from the cigarette lighter) – converts to 5V 2A USB-C – cable length 3.5 meters
  • GPS antenna – I guess it were about 2 meters of cable
  • Camera – 6.5 meter cable length

I decided to run all cables along the front window, just behind the headlining and then into the A pillar. Using some plastic tools will make the work much easier, but you should be able to do it without them. T

The manual describes certain points where you need to guide the cables along.

Important to mention before starting

For the GPS antenna and the camera you start with the wiring from the mirror. So just plug the cables in already from the beginning. BUT for the power adapter it’s the other way around. You need to start from the cigarette lighter port and then guide the USB-C cable all the way to the mirror.

Mounting the mirror

This is the easiest part. You will have four of those rubber mounts with the mirror, but you only need two. I did not see a difference between them, maybe one pair is a bit stronger. The installation is self explaining (no pictures here, sorry). Just put the new digital mirror over your standard one and fix it in place with those rubbers.

Headlining and A pillar

Putting the cables behind the headlining is pretty easy in the Evora. You don’t need to detach anything. Use some tool to get a small gap between the window and the headlining and slide the cables behind it.
Remove the door seal first – just pull on it, it will come of easy. You can remove it completely so it doesn’t hang around in your way (the re-installation of it is no big deal, but you should start at the sharp edge on the roof). After that you need to pull on the A pillar. It is fixed on two points and there is also a small guide at the bottom. The next pictures will show that.
First two points.
Here is the kind of guide on the bottom of the pillar. The cables don’t belong between there, be aware of it when mounting everything again later.

GPS antenna

Just to give you an idea where you could put the GPS antenna. I did not want to put it completely on the dashboard though the signal might be better (it also works the way I have installed it). After you have removed the A pillar you can easily put the cable there.
It will look like that after you have mounted it. Don’t mount the A pillar at this point. You still need to route the power cable at a later time.

Door seal

You already removed the door seal. You can now put the cable for the camera in this gap, all the way back to the B pillar. You will also put the cable for the power adapter there later.
Just to give you an idea how to route the cables. The blue one is the camera and the red one the power line.

Power adapter

Just run the cable from the power plug behind the carpet to where my hand is in this picture (just pull on the carpet, it is not attached to anything). This is the point from the previous picture with the red line. You can now go all the way to the front, up the A pillar (you can re-attach it now) and under the headlining to the mirror. The cable length (3.5 m) will be a pretty close call!


The red circles mark three “hangers” where this cushion is pushed into. Each green circle is a plastic clip. There are two ways to remove those clips. The next picture will explain it. One way is to pull on it, the other way is to pull the whole cushion upwards the roof (and you will need to do that for the red-marked hangers).
One of the hangers.
And the counterpart. Now you will get the idea how to remove it.
For me a combination of both methods (pulling and also pushing upwards) did this. The green one is the result of what might happen when you pull on it. The red on will happen if you push it to the roof.
Worth to mention: it is way easier to remove those plastic clips from the rear carpet, put them back in place in the cushion and then install this thing again, THAN trying to slide those tiny little bastards in those four little holes when installing the whole stuff again because there is some velcro on it that holds it in place on the carpet.
Removing the base mount seat pad is much easier. Just pull on it! It is only attached with lot’s of velcro.
Nice to know: here is the backup pull cord for the trunk that you can use if the battery is empty.
Difficult to see but this is just at the bottom side of the B pillar. I pulled away the carpet to run the wires from under the B pillar to the rear seat base and then up to the window.
The cable for the camera will run along this path.
There are three bolts with a socket head (I think it was size 4) that need to be removed.
Optional: If you want to install the camera at the rear bumper or at the engine bay then you also need to remove the three bolts on the other side to get an easier access to the panel that covers the exhaust manifold. You could guide the cable through there but you should put some heat shield sleeve on it before!
Here you can see the access panel to the engine bay!
Now you need to remove the upper surrounding of the window. It is attached with two clips, so pull on it and it will come off. Run the cable behind there and up to the headlining. There are three ways to attach the camera now. First is to just glue it to the headlining with the double-sided tape that comes with the display. Second, screw it in (ouch!). Third, make a small bracket that you can slide behind the headlining. I will design a small bracket and 3D print it. Of course I will also provide a download link for the STL-file as soon as I have it finished.
This is how it looks like behind that panel.


Done! Almost at all. You need to re-install everything that you have removed which should be no problem at all. The tricky bits are described in the pictures. If you have any questions just leave me a comment.

Sorry for the dark picture. This is where I have mounted the camera for now.

Comparison – Stock vs. Digital

The rear view from the standard Alpine satnav reverse camera system.
Standard mirror.
Digital mirror at night. The image quality is much better than the standard one on the satnav. Spot the difference at the white car on the left. The daytime quality is even better of course. The display has a 1080p resolution, so this is fine but I guess it only has about 25-30 fps / Hz. So you will recognize that a little bit.

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